SAINT-MIKLÓS: the impregnable Chynadiyiv Castle of Love
Chynadiyiv Castle / wikipedia.org
They loved each other and arranged their meetings precisely in this castle — Ilona Zrínyi, the most famous and influential Hungarian princess, and Imre Thököly, a Hungarian count and rebel, fourteen years her junior. This castle is Saint Miklós, located in the village of Chynadiyovo in the Mukachevo district, on the banks of the Latorica River, surrounded by mountain slopes. The name «Saint Miklós» translates as Saint Nicholas.
The history of Chynadiyovo is closely tied to Mukachevo, which lies just 12 kilometers away. On one of the terraces of its Palanok Castle stands a monument to Ilona Zrínyi and her son Ferenc Rákóczi — the princess became famous for her tireless struggle against the Austrian crown. Thanks to Zrínyi, Palanok Castle withstood a three-year siege by the imperial army. And Saint Miklós became the witness to the great love of her life.
THE EMERGENCE OF A FORTRESS ON THE TRADE ROUTE
T
he first written mention of the settlement and fortifications in this area dates back to 1214. Later, in 1264, King Stephen V granted the estate to Master Aladar, a royal commissioner. The first mention of the castle itself appears in 1450: Baron Imre Perényi, who at that time owned the Saint Miklós domain, received permission from the Hungarian king to build a fortress near the Khust–Uzhhorod route.
There was an urgent need for strong fortifications — the Ruska Gate pass was located nearby. The fortress was meant to protect travelers and merchants, as robberies were far too frequent. An important trade route passed through here. The walls of the fortress were equipped with loopholes, and it fulfilled its defensive purpose. Nevertheless, the castle itself looked picturesque, surrounded by a garden, which added a romantic touch to the defensive structure.
ARCHITECTURAL HIGHLIGHTS OF THE NEW FORTIFICATION
The first castle was a single-story structure, naturally with earthen ramparts and moats. The fortress acquired its current appearance thanks to Prince Mihály Telegdy, who bought the domain in 1574 for 22,000 forints and carried out a major reconstruction, turning the castle into a two-story building. Saint Miklós Castle has more than one entrance. The main gate is located on the north side, while visitors are welcomed through the equipped southern entrance.
From the outside, the castle is a two-story rectangular stone structure with one-meter-thick walls. In the corners of the castle, when viewed from the southern entrance, two towers can be seen. Entering inside, on the first floor, there is a large hall with a vestibule. Then follow six rooms, where portraits of all the castle’s owners hang on the walls, accompanied by an exhibition of Celtic and Scythian cultures. The layout of the second floor is similar to the first — another large hall, a long corridor, and six small rooms.
In keeping with the tradition of medieval fortresses, Saint Miklós had its secrets: one may encounter double walls forming hidden passages. The main rooms feature barrel vaults, while the castle towers have cross-shaped roofs. The fortress was built as a feudal stronghold; thus, it stands over deep cellars where grain was once stored. Near the roof, an unmistakable element of the defense system can be seen: loopholes.
MANY OWNERS — FEW TRUE MASTERS
Although the construction of the fortress began under the name of Perényi, it was completed by a completely different owner. The castle never became the ancestral seat of any particular dynasty. Its owners changed constantly. The reason was that the land on which it stood frequently changed hands, and with each transfer, a new lord would move into the castle. For a long time, it was ruled by Hungarian aristocrats.
In the 17th century, the fate of Saint Miklós was tied to the Rákóczi princes: in the 1600s, it was owned by Ferenc Rákóczi I, the ruler of Transylvania. The palace then passed to his wife, Ilona Zrínyi, and later to their son, Ferenc Rákóczi II, a national hero of Hungary. In 1726, the Austrian court confiscated these lands from the Rákóczi family and transferred them to the Schönborn family, rulers of the Mukachevo domain, who continued to use the castle for over two centuries.
The first owner of the Schönborn family was Archbishop Lothar Franz von Schönborn. The very first thing he did was eliminate all of the castle’s strategic features. The triple system of moats, triple palisades, four ravelins, and two bastions — all were dismantled. Windows were installed, and the castle was used as a venue for small gatherings.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the castle’s greatest enemy — time — began to take its toll. The walls and roof deteriorated to a critical state. Only in the mid-20th century, in 1943, did the Hungarian State Commission for the Protection of Art Monuments commission significant research and restoration work. As a result, two images were uncovered on the northern and western walls. One of them bears the Rákóczi family coat of arms…
During World War II, the Germans turned Saint Miklós into a prison. After the arrival of Soviet rule, the castle premises were occupied by the village council, followed by the forestry administration, and later a military garrison. It was during this time that the castle fell into complete decay. After the military unit withdrew, the site became a dumping ground — the entire village brought its waste here… An auto depot was built next to Saint Miklós, destroying the 18th-century park.
THE CASTLE OF ETERNAL LOVE
Finally, in 2001, the castle was leased — more precisely, granted in concession by the state — to the Transcarpathian artist and musician József Bartos. Thanks to him and his tireless work, the once-neglected building became a pilgrimage site for both Ukrainian and international tourists, hosting cultural events, art residencies and exhibitions, and classical music concerts. The artist began transforming the former fortress into the Castle of Love, for it was here in 1682 that one of the era’s great and extraordinary love stories was born.
Ilona Zrínyi was a brave, courageous, and highly educated woman: she spoke Hungarian, Croatian, Czech, Slovak, Serbian, Polish, German, French, as well as Ancient Greek and Latin. In addition, she was well-versed in mathematics, law, fortification, and ballistics. At the age of seventeen, Ilona married Prince Ferenc I Rákóczi and bore him three children. The Rákóczi princes were then resisting the Habsburgs…
After being widowed, Ilona inherited Palanok Castle. She was nearing forty, yet Zrínyi remained a beauty and soon married Count Imre Thököly. It was at Saint Miklós Castle that they met in secret. The young Imre was an outstanding military commander, respected even at Versailles. At just 21, he was already honored as a general by kings.
BRAVE AND COURAGEOUS ILONA
The beautiful Ilona remained true to the cause of her first husband: she opposed the Habsburgs and sought support from the Ottoman Empire, where Count Thököly — then leader of the rebels — went on a diplomatic mission. The negotiations failed, and her beloved was imprisoned. The Habsburgs dispatched a twelve-thousand-strong army to seize the Mukachevo castle from the princess.
Ilona could only oppose them with two thousand guards and a few hundred peasants. And with this small band of defenders, she held the siege for three years!!! The princess personally issued orders, planned sorties, inspected posts and patrols, treated the wounded, and prepared meals… But bribery and betrayal took their toll. Ilona was forced to surrender. The conquerors imprisoned her, prohibited her from seeing her children, and later exiled her beyond the borders of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. She spent the final years of her life in Turkey alongside her husband.
Imre Thököly remained faithful in his love for Ilona Zrínyi until her last day — she died in his arms. It was an extraordinary and great love. “Throughout history, one thing always remains: where there is a great warrior, there will be a great love!” says József Bartos, the man who revived Chynadiyiv Castle.
Today, Saint Miklós is considered a fortress of unity, where men propose to their beloved and young couples hold their wedding ceremonies. In medieval times, marrying at a sacred place was a tradition, a guarantee of a happy married life.
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